After a nine-hour drive, our group of six Airstreams was thrilled to reach the tiny coastal village of Red Bay, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. But the biggest surprise was the enormous iceberg grounded just offshore.

If you haven't been following my Labrador travel story, you can catch up in my previous post, Our Labrador Adventure From Churchill Falls to the Coast.
Red Bay was one of the highlights of our Expedition 51° Airstream camping tour. Although temperatures hovered just above freezing and the winds were fierce, the community gave us a wonderfully warm welcome.
After searching for the authentic Labrador experience I had been hoping to find, Red Bay felt like the place where everything finally came together.

Before the Trans-Labrador Highway was finished, Red Bay's supplies came in by sea or by air. The town very kindly allowed us to park our rigs for free on the former airstrip, which was also used by the locals to process and store their winter firewood.
Our group was the first organized caravan of travel trailers the village had hosted. We arrived early in the tourist season, just as things were opening after the long winter, and the town had even regraded the airstrip access road to make our arrival easier.

Our row of trailers is visible on the far right, within easy walking distance of the harbour, a great restaurant, a brand-new café and several excellent museums. With full tanks of fresh water and propane, plus solar panels, batteries and generators, we were well equipped for about ten days of dry camping.

The next day was calm with a sun/cloud mix, just perfect for some iceberg viewing. We walked down to the harbour to board the little cruise boat that would take us out to sea.
The red building housed the new café and a whaling exhibit.
The café became a gathering place for locals and tourists, and we spent many happy hours there listening to stories of daily life, past and present.

Bundled in all our winter clothing, we enjoyed several hours of comfortable iceberg viewing.
The huge iceberg had been grounded in 120 feet of water for four days, but it would disappear by the next morning.
We were incredibly lucky to see it up close during its brief layover in Red Bay.
Here is a video I made from our cruise. Turn on your speakers and enjoy!
Back at the docks, the boat crew hosted an outdoor lobster boil for us, with grilled scallops. Shown below is Captain Rick doing the honours at the barbeque. He grilled scallops in their half shells with seasoned butter. They were the best scallops we've ever tasted, and we even ate the roe and frills along with the main muscle. Absolutely delicious!

Afterwards, a local Parks Canada guide took us on a fascinating tour of historic Saddle Island, where we saw archaeological evidence of the Basque whalers who processed whale oil here in the 1500s. The remains of the Red Bay Basque Whaling Station were designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2013.
The site includes rendering ovens, cooperages for making barrels, wharves, temporary living quarters and a cemetery, along with underwater remains of vessels and deposits of whale bones. In the photo of Boney Beach, those grey rocks in the foreground are actually 500-year-old whale bones.
Standing among these remains, it was astonishing to realize that Red Bay once supported the world's largest whaling operations.
Red Bay became the primary source of whale oil, which was shipped to Europe for lighting and manufacturing. By the 1570s, an estimated 2,500 men arrived each spring from Spain and France to work in seasonal whaling stations along the Strait. As many as 15 galleons used Red Bay to hunt bowhead and right whales, with each ship capable of carrying 1,000 barrels of oil, the harvest from about 20 whales.
Red Bay ranks among the major archaeological properties of the world and we felt incredibly privileged to experience this extraordinary piece of Labrador's history.
As memorable as Red Bay was, our upcoming stay in historic Battle Harbour would become our favourite experience in Labrador. Stay tuned for the next chapter!
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My husband and I love camping in our travel trailer whenever we can during Canada's warmer seasons. Some years, our adventures add up to several months on the road as we explore different regions of this beautiful country.
Evening Magic, varnished watercolour on 5 x 5 inch panel, captures an island seemingly suspended in time as the sky blushes with the final colours of sunset. This tiny painting is a tribute to those fleeting moments when nature offers its most peaceful embrace.
The four-barrel swimming raft depicted in Lake Magic, varnished watercolour on 5 x 5 inch panel, is wrapped in a veil of mist.
Quiet Majesty, varnished watercolour on 6 inch diameter panel, captures the gentle glow of evening as weathered granite, still water and a venerable white pine create a scene of quiet strength. It celebrates the restorative calm found in Canada's rugged landscapes.

Of course my husband soon found his happy place… helping a fellow Airstreamer fix his heat pump and entry door latch.
All the towns we had visited since crossing the border were established relatively recently, and, being so far inland, had no historical connection to the fishing industry that had shaped coastal culture so profoundly.
THE LONG DRIVE TO RED BAY
I breathed a sigh of relief as we crested a hill at Port Hope Simpson and the gas station came into view.
We continued south on Hwy 510 over higher elevations and encountered snow, sleet, rain, wind, and sunshine. Ninety minutes later we reached the windswept coast and the charming UNESCO World Heritage Site of Red Bay. Best of all, a huge iceberg was grounded just offshore!
I have been proudly represented by Meta4 Contemporary Craft Gallery in Port Perry, Ontario since they opened their storefront in a historic building in 2005.






L






Crossing into Labrador felt like entering another world. Ahead of us lay more than 1,100 kilometres of wilderness, where black spruce forests, rocky rivers, and endless lakes stretched to the horizon. It was time to experience the legendary Trans-Labrador Highway.
We had stayed in Lab City in the winter of 2016, for a
The route was hilly and the road curved through wetlands and forests, around ice-crusted lakes, and over countless rocky streams.
With so little traffic, it often felt as though we had the entire highway to ourselves.
We parked overnight for free beside the municipal arena and enjoyed dinner at the only restaurant, which was in a multi-purpose indoor town complex. The building also housed the pool and fitness centre, municipal offices, school, library, hotel, and grocery store.
Instead of using a single large dam, the reservoir relies on a massive network of 88 dikes to contain the water.
Imagine the power of the Churchill in its unfettered heyday, especially during spring runoff. It must have been incredible to witness!
Early this spring, my husband and I joined five other couples, each towing an Airstream travel trailer, on a grand adventure to the wilds of northeastern Canada.
The route features a mix of raw boreal forests, untamed rivers, UNESCO World Heritage sites, and remote coastal villages.
First of all, our group had to get from Ontario to Baie-Comeau. On May 18 we set off on an easy 1,300 km (800 mile) journey that we spread out over the course of a week.
The north shore of the St. Lawrence River is gorgeous and the curvy highway swoops over and around rugged, rocky hills.
THE EXPEDITION:
As we crossed the Hart-Jaune River, I took this photo from the truck. We saw countless lakes, rivers, rapids, and waterfalls during our trip.
On Hwy 389, which is a mix of paved and gravel sections 565 kilometers (352 miles) long, there were no campgrounds in which to stay.
At the end of the second day of travel on Hwy 389, we were excited to reach the Quebec/Labrador border, where the Trans Labrador highway begins. The sign reads "Welcome to the Big Land".


