Early this spring, my husband and I joined five other couples, each towing an Airstream travel trailer, on a grand adventure to the wilds of northeastern Canada.
Our route would follow the famous route called Expedition 51°, which is pictured in the first two photos of this post.
We timed our trip to be early enough to avoid black fly season and forest fires, and to see some spring icebergs, but late enough that night time temperatures would be above freezing and gravel roads would have firmed up after spring thaw.
THE ROUTE:
This is a remote 1,700-kilometer (1,050-mile) road trip and tourist route that takes drivers through some of the most rugged and remote wilderness in Quebec and Labrador.
The epic loop spans from Baie-Comeau, Quebec, on the St. Lawrence River, up through Fermont, and traverses Labrador from west to east along the Trans-Labrador Highway before ending near Blanc-Sablon on the Lower North Shore, overlooking the Strait of Belle Isle and the island of Newfoundland.
The route features a mix of raw boreal forests, untamed rivers, UNESCO World Heritage sites, and remote coastal villages.
Because of the vast distances between amenities (up to 400 km or 250 miles between gas stations), travelers are advised to heavily prepare with spare tires, emergency supplies, and satellite phones.
Ten percent of the journey is on gravel roads, all of which lie between Baie-Comeau and Labrador City.
GETTING THERE:
First of all, our group had to get from Ontario to Baie-Comeau. On May 18 we set off on an easy 1,300 km (800 mile) journey that we spread out over the course of a week.
We enjoyed visiting Peterborough, Montebello, Trois Rivieres, and Tadoussac along the way.
After crossing the Saguenay River by ferry at Tadoussac, we camped in a beautiful spot overlooking the river (shown here), and enjoyed a whale watching cruise.
The north shore of the St. Lawrence River is gorgeous and the curvy highway swoops over and around rugged, rocky hills.
One afternoon, we took a side trip in our truck up along the Saguenay River and really enjoyed seeing the Laurentian Mountains in their spring finery (pictured here).
THE EXPEDITION:
We headed north from Baie-Comeau on Hwy 389, into the wilds of northern Quebec, passing several hydro-electric projects including Manic 5. This photo of our truck and trailer approaching the famous structure, the world's highest multiple-arch-and-buttress dam, was taken by a friend on the caravan.
Standing 214 meters (703 feet) tall and stretching 1,314 meters (4,311 feet) long, the colossal engineering marvel creates a massive reservoir inside a 214-million-year-old meteorite impact crater.
As we crossed the Hart-Jaune River, I took this photo from the truck. We saw countless lakes, rivers, rapids, and waterfalls during our trip.
Seeing these water systems made me realize the Canadian Shield is a massive, impermeable rainwater collector, funneling water toward the oceans. It is easy to understand why northern Quebec and Labrador have so many hydro-electric dams.
On Hwy 389, which is a mix of paved and gravel sections 565 kilometers (352 miles) long, there were no campgrounds in which to stay.
Shown here is our group parked for the night at a truck stop called Relais Gabriel, near the half way point.
Being without utility connections or cell service, but with full fresh water tanks, propane tanks, and batteries, we all spent a comfortable night. Our Starlink Wi-Fi service was invaluable - providing internet access to upload my photos to secure cloud storage, work on emails, and watch our favourite YouTube channels. This was the first of many cozy 'boon-docking' experiences on this trip.
At the end of the second day of travel on Hwy 389, we were excited to reach the Quebec/Labrador border, where the Trans Labrador highway begins. The sign reads "Welcome to the Big Land".
Even though we drove carefully at 35 to 50 kph (20 to 30 mph) on the 150 km (95 mile) long gravel sections of Hwy 389, we still had some wear and tear to repair on the Airstream when we reached Labrador City. My husband refastened our under mount kitchen sink to the countertop, re-secured our microwave oven into its cabinet, and reattached our lower kitchen cupboard to the wall. We were all set for the road again!
Stay tuned for the next phase of our adventure as we journey across the vastness of Labrador and witness the unique beauty of The Big Land.
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Over many decades, my husband and I have toured every province and territory of Canada, and the island of Newfoundland remains one of our favourite destinations. An unexpected encounter there would later inspire three very meaningful paintings.
Discovered in 1960, and designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1978, this archaeological gem is the first and only known site established by Vikings in North America and the earliest evidence of European settlement in the New World.
It was the largest specimen I ever had seen, with brilliant blue dots and dashes along its body. This exquisite creature stayed obligingly still while I took several close-up photos. I knew they would make excellent painting references one day.
She said yes, so I created a new version of the scene, and she acquired it in celebration of her milestone birthday. The second painting was titled Rocky Repose (varnished watercolour on 10 x 10 inch panel).

If you are familiar with my work, you will know I’m often drawn to the ancient rocks and pristine blue lakes of the Canadian Shield.
The subject was a place I hold close to my heart: the quiet, timeless shores of Georgian Bay.
It was my first time seeing up close the ancient striped rocks of this region, and I was truly captivated. With my very first digital camera in hand, I captured over 200 epic photos, some of which are pictured in this post.
Out on the water in a kayak, I came face to face with that landscape in a way I never had before.






The day was foggy but I took many photos and they have inspired several paintings since then.
This is one of the wonderful photos I took during our ten-day stay in the park, and this snapshot taken after sunset served as inspiration for Mazinaw Midnight.


Working with these vivid, glowing colours was an absolute joy, but I do admit, the early stages of northern lights scenes are decidedly unattractive and discouraging. It takes patience and a profound belief in my process to pursue the painting journey to completion.
This vibrant artwork is titled Rhythms of the Night, varnished watercolour on 12 x 12 inch panel.
I saw the rocky shoreline during our Tundra Buggy tour outside of Churchill.

The fourth painting of the series is my first watercolour featuring northern lights and a polar bear.
I prepared for this painting, along with three others, by making these 2 x 2 inch concept drawings of snowy scenes with aurora skies, in my sketchbook.
DAY 2: AURORA LAYER 2
DAY 3: AURORA LAYER 3
DAY 4: FINAL AURORA LAYER
DAY 5: SNOW AND TREES